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LESSONS 



-IX- 



FANCYWORK 



-BY- 



Lydia Y. Sandford. 



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LESSONS 



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FANCYWORK 



— BY— 

Lydia Y. Sandford. 



Entered according to act of < 'ongress, in the year 1885, &?/ Lydia )'. Sandford, in the 
office of the Librarian of Congress, at Washington. 



1? 










Illustration I.— Section of a Crazj Patchwork Quilt with the edges in points. 
The lines represent the joining of the blocks where they are sewed together. 
See description of the second Crazy Patchwork Quilt. 



CRAZY PATCHWORK. 

The materials used in this kind of patchwork are silk, satin or velvel scraps of 
different colors, shapes and sizes, wliich are joined together with embroider; silk. 
worked in a variety of fancy stitches. The smaller the scraps are, the better the 
work looks when finished. Bed quilts are the articles usually made from this 
patchwork, but tidies, chair cushions, or even table scarfs made in the same way 
look beautiful and are not nearly so tedious to make as quilts, and the materials for 
the smaller articles may often be readily obtained where it would be impossible to 
supply a sufficient quantity for a bed spread. 

HOW TO MAKE A CRAZY QUILT. 

There are several ways of making crazy quilts and the worker must be guided 
in her choice of methods partly by her taste, partly by the materials she can com- 
mand. Hither of the two styles here described will make a very handsome quilt 
provided the work is neatly done and the materials used are of line quality. No 
silks mixed with cotton should be employed as they soon fade and look shabby. 
The silk, satin and velvet pieces must be sewed upon a foundation of old muslin or 
Canton llannel. 



First Way of Making a Quilt.— A description of one recently seen will 
give a correct idea of the manner of making it. The body of the quilt was com- 
posed of nine large squares or blocks of patchwork each made separately and then 
sewed together forming a large square having three of the smaller squares on each 
side. Where the squares were joined together a strip of black velvet ribbon, an 
inch and a half wide, was sewed on, forming a border round each square. This 
ribbon was worked with large herring bone stitches in different colored embroidery 
silk to correspond with the rest of the quilt. The border was about six inches wide 
and was of plain dark blue satin, upon which were worked at regular intervals 
bouquets of flowers, each bouquet being of the same size but composed of different 
flowers and worked in the colors properly belonging to each flower. The stitch 
used in working the bouquets was the common satin stitch used in embroidery. 
Some of the pieces employed in making the blocks were quite large and these had 
flowers, birds, butterflies, cats, dogs and other figures worked upon them, some in 
Kensington stitch, some in satin stitch, which by filling the pieces up made them 
look smaller and took away the bare appearance which large scraps always give to 
a quilt, or other article. The lining was pink silesia. 

Second Quilt.— Another, and much handsomer quilt is made as follows: Make 
as many blocks, eight inches square, as the size of your quilt demands. If the 
pieces composing these blocks are small, the quilt when finished will be far more 
beautiful than if they are large, but it will take much longer to make. When they 
are joined together they must be placed in such a way that the outer row of blocks 
will form points all around the quilt. (See Illustration I.) Where the blocks are 
joined, work over the seams fancy stitches to cover, them the same as you did in 
joining the scraps forming the blocks. The lining must be cut to fit the points on 
the edge, and a silk cord must be sewed on all round the points to give a finish to them, 
and a small silk tassel or ball sewed to each point. A quilt thus finished in points 
looks extremely handsome. In making the blocks, for either style of quilt, a foun- 
dation square, upon which to sew the scraps must be cut from either thin Canton 
flannel, or the good portions of a partly worn sheet. This makes a nice foundation 
because the muslin is soft and easy to sew upon. Some baste upon this muslin 
foundation a square of cotton batting, such as is used in the lining of velvet cloaks, 
and perhaps in an article as large as a quilt it is best to do so as it gives it a soft padded 
appearance. When basting the scraps of silk and velvet upon the foundation 
square be sure to carefully turn in the edges of the overlapping pieces and sew them 
down securely, so that when the fancy stitches are worked over them no frayed 
edges shall appear. The quilt may be lined with any material the worker prefers, 
but silesia makes the cheapest and best lining where new material must be bought 
for the purpose. 

A TIDY IN CRAZY PATCHWORK. 

Take a piece of old muslin or thin, new, Canton ilannel and cut it the size you 
wish to make the tidy. This piece of muslin is the foundation upon which the silk 
and other scraps are to be laid and basted down before the fancy joining stitches 
are worked upon them. Fold in the overlapping edges and slip-stitch them neatly down 
on the foundation. Be careful not to place all the dark pieces in one part of the tidy 
aud the light ones in another, but distribute the colors equally over the whole. The 
more irregular the shape of the pieces and the smaller they are the better the work 
will look. If there are any large pieces you do not care to cut up, work upon them, 
in embroidery, any figure your taste suggests, Mowers, butterflies, etc., always look 
well, but they are what everybody thinks of. and odd figures, such as Hags, balloons, 



stars, or even spades, rakes, brooms, etc., t«n >k pretty when well worked and are a 
little more uncommon than tbe first mentioned figures ami attract attention and 
admiration on ace. Mini of their oddity. 

Scraps of black or other very dark silks may 1)« made to look not only much 
brighter, but much handsomer and richer by embroidering upon them, in satin 
stitch, small polka dots, diamonds or triangles, w hicb must be put upon the pieces 

in regular rows so as to make it appear as though thej uric woven into the 
material. The silks used lor this embroider] must lie of very bright colors, as 
Scarlet, Orange, bright blue, etc. Suppose you wish to make polka dots upon a 

piece of black ailk. Make the first row of scarlet and the next of orange, placing 

the Orange colored dots a little belOW and between tin' dots Of the upper row : then 
a row of scarlet again that come under those in the first row and just as tar below 
the row of Orange dots as they were helow the first scarlet row. In making 

diamonds a blue and an orange colored diamond might be made to alternate with 
each other in the first row, and a green and a scarlet one in the second row, the 

third to he a repetition of the lirst row : or the halt of a diamond might lie white 

and the other halt green. Ind I they may he arranged in a great variety id' ways, 

many of which will readily suggest themselves to any one who gives the matter a 
little thought. No one who has not tried this easy method of brightening dark 
pieces can tell how effective it is. 

When the tidy is finished line it with silesia and sew round the edge a heavy 
silk cord and at each corner sew a silk tassel or hall. Another way Of Finishing the 
clue is to sew a piece Of velvet ribbon, of any color ami an inch and a half wide, all 
round the tidy and make down the middle of it any fancy stitch that will show to 
advantage, or finisb the top ami bottom in points as described in the directions foi 
making the second quilt. 

Chair Cushion Cover in Crazy Patchwork. 

Cut a foundation the size of the cushion yon propose to cover and proceed as in 
making the tidy. 

Tahle Scarf in Crazy Patchwork. 

This may be made wholly of the patchwork or the body of the scarf may be of 
felt, colored Canton flannel or other material and a strip of the patchwork he 
placed upon the ends a little above the fringe, which finishes the ends. The strip 
may be wide or narrow as the worker prefers but should be made of small pieces 
and bright colors. It must be worked upon a foundation, the same as the articles 
previously mentioned, but requires no lining if only n strip for trimming the ends is 
used as it will be placed above the material of which the scarf is made. 

Stitches Used in Crazy Patchwork. 

Feather stitch, herring bone, double herring bone and button hole stitch are the 
stitches most used iti joining the pieces together, and though others are made use of 
these are both pretty and easily done. The double herring bone stitch is very 
pretty when worked in two colors, and the button hole stitch admits of almost 
innumerable modifications which seem so many different stitches and afford great 
variety. 




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used to indicate the different colored wools to be used. The heavy lines represent 
the embroidery silk. 

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Illustration HI.— Center of tidy in cross stitch. The different murks denote 

the colors of the wool to l>e used. 

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O, S'urlet. 
X, Hlue. 
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Illustration IV.— Border for tidy, to be worked in long stitch with the edge 
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-Border for tidy in cross stitch; the edge t<> be worked in 



9 

CROSS STITCH OH CAHVAS. 

This simple and well-known stitch produces beautiful effects when used in the 
working of patterns to which it is best adapted. These should always be geomet- 
rical figures such as are shown in the colored illustrations. Employed as this 
stitch so often is in working the figures of animals, flowers and leaves, it gives 
nnsatisfactory results, as it cannot follow the curved lines in which such figures 
ought to be drawn, and they must be depicted in unnatural shapes to accommodate 
them to the repuirements of the stitch. The canvas upon which this stitch is 
worked is made of various materials, linen, cotton and wool all being used. The 
woolen and some of the cotton canvas is woven in very fine thread and can be 
worked either in embroidery silks, or in crewels, Saxony wool or other line wools. 
The linen canvas is woven in coarse threads and the squares are larger and require 
a coarser wool in working them, such as zephyr or Germantown. Many articles 
may be, made of canvas, anions which are tidies, lambrequins, lamp and table mats, 
pincushions, rugs, etc. A blunt pointed needle with an eye like a darning needle 
is used in this work. 

TIDIES IH CROSS STITCH. 

The best canvas for making tidies of is the white cotton called Java and the 
linen canvas, the latter being much the prettiest when finished. Illustrations II 
and IH show patterns suitable for working in the centers of these tidies while 
illustrations IV and V show borders for the same. Having decided upon the size 
of your tidy, find the exact center by doubling the canvas in two at the top and 
running a thread through the line of holes nearest- the middle from top to bottom ; 
then fold the canvas double at the sides and run a thread through the central row 
of holes from one side to tin- other. The t wo threads will cross at the center of the 
canvas, and from this point begin to work. Do not draw the wool tight or the 
canvas will be seen between the stitches, and when the tidy is washed the wool will 
shrink more than the canvas and draw unless the work is done loosely. 

Illustration III is a pretty design for the center of a tidy, and illustration V for 
its border. The materials required are a piece of linen canvas eighteen inches 
square, and scarlet, blue, orange and white zephyr and orange colored embroidery 
silk. Having found the center of the tidy in the manner above described, put- the 
needle up through the central hole, cross over two of the small squares of canvas 
in a slanting direction and put the needle down through the hole opposite to the 
one through which it came up. This makes the half of the cross stitch. Put the 
needle up again through the second hole on a line with the one through which it- 
was first put up, cross over the half stitch just made, pull the needle through to 
the under side and it- forms the cross stitch. The different marks which represent 
the difierent colors of wool used in working the design are explained below the 
pattern. Any other colors the worker prefers may be used. After working the 
design in cross stitch take the embroidery silk and make lout; stitches all around 
the out-side edge where the heavy lines are. These stitches are made by putting 
the needle up and down through the same holes that the wool goes through. They 
form a pretty finish to the edge. For the border see illustratration V. Before 
beginning to work the border, run a thread all around the tidy at- equal distances 
from each edge. A space of an inch and a half from each edge should be left- at 
the very least. This inch and a half forms the fringe after the threads have been 
pulled out that run from top to bottom on the selvedge sides of the canvas, and 
across it the other way of the canvas. Work around where this thread runs, in 
button hole stitch, as shown in illustration V. with the embroider} silk. Now 



Ill 

begin the border. Commence at the center of one of the sides and work around 
and around, leaving enough space between the button hole worked edge and the 
border to keep the work from looking crowded. The cross Btitches of the border 
must be worked with scarlet wool, and the long stitches with embroidery silk. 
Alter drawing out the threads for the fringe, sew a small silk tassel ai each corner, 
and iron the tidj on the wrong side t" smooth it. Illustration 1 1 shews one other 
pattern for the center of a tidy, and illustration I V shows a border worked in long 
stitches instead of emss stitch : long stitch being one long single stitch taken from 
point to point across mans squares of the canvas. 

CHAIH CUSHION IK CROSS STITCH. 

The centers of illustrations ll and III show prettj patterns for making chair 
cushion or sofa cushion covers in this stitch. Spaces must be left between the 
Qgures and tilled in afterward. The canvas when finished is whollj covered by 
wool, the spaces between the figures being filled up with Mack or other dark 
colored wool. The canvas used max be either the cotton kind used in making 
slippers, or the linen which is not sostifl and is easier to work on. The wool maj 
be of any colors the worker prefers, but there should be as man] different colors as 
are shown in the patterns. The under side of the cushion should he of silesia and 
a silk cork should he sewed around the edge when finished. 

LAMBREQUIN IN CROSS STITCH. 

Materials : Linen or woolen convas, embroidery silk and zephj r wool of several 
colors. Work a border round the lowei edge of the canvas taking for a pattern 
either of the tidy borders. A littit above this border work at short and regular 
distances from each other a row of figures such as are seen in illustrations II and 
III. Round the edge of the lambrequin sew a deep, handsome, woolen fringe. 
Iron on the wrong side to smooth it. instead of a fringe, a wide velvet ribbon or 
brocaded silk ribbon, may be sewed at the edge of the canvas, and different colored 
small silk tassels be sewed to it at regular and short intervals. 

SPLASHERS IN CROSS STITCH. 

Materials : White Java canvas, different colored crewels or Turkej red German 
knitting cotton. Work a simple border around the edge, and work some appropri- 
ate motto in the center, or your initials as preferred. Fringe out each end of the 
splasher. 

RUG IN CROSS STITCH. 

Buy from your grocer an empty coffee sack; one of the finer kind. Work a 
border and center piece on it as for a tidy, but use double Germantown knitting 
yai ii for the purpose. Line w ith red flannel. 

TABLE MATS IN CROSS STITCH. 

These may be square, oblong or octagonal in shape as preferred. Work a pretty 
center and border in bright colors and till in the vacant spaces with black. Ger- 
mantown yarn WOUld do to make these mats instead of zephyr. Cut a piece of still 
cardboard the same size and shape as your mat and cover it with red flannel or 
i on one side to form the lining of the mat. Iron the worked canvas oul 
before you sew it on to the upper side of the cardboard. Finish around the edge 

with n i row woolen fringe or a holder of crocheted scallops. 



11 

Pin-cushion in Cross Stitch. 

A good way in which to use up odds and ends of zephyr which have been left 
over from making larger articles is to cut a piece of canvas the proper size for a 
large pin-cushion. Divide tin 1 canvas into small squares by working, at regular 
intervals, rows of Mark zephyr, first across one way of the canvas, then the other. 
Fill in these spaces with the different colored wools, making only a few stitches of 
each color in each square. None of the squares will look alike when the cushion is 
finished, and therein lies the oddity of the design. It is something like a crazy quilt. 

CROCHET. 

The only materials used in this kind of work are thread of any kind— silk, 
cotton or worsted— and a steel or bone needle with a hook on the end. The steel 
needle is used in working with line thread, and the bone one is for worsted and the 
coarser kinds of thread, as seine twine, macreme cord. etc. Various letters are 
used as abbreviations to designate the different terms used in crochet. Chain 
stitch is the stitch formed by pulling the thread up, with the needle, through the 
loop, that is made on the needle by twisting the thread around it. and pulling it 
through this twist, the repeated pulling up of the thread forming a new loop each 
time, and the work thus made being called chain. This chain stitch is the founda- 
tion stitch in crochet, and is the first that one ignorant of the art of crocheting 
must learn. Double crochet is made by putting the needle through a stitch of the 
chain (keeping, meanwhile, the last loop of the chain still on the needle) and 
drawing the thread through, making a second loop on the needle, then pulling the 
thread with the hook through both these stitches. Treble stitch is made like 
double crochet, only before inserting the hook through the chain you must twist 
the thread once around the needle, thus making two stitches on the needle, then 
draw the thread up through the chain. There are now three loops on the needle. 
Pull the thread through two of these and there are two loops left. Pull the thread 
up again through these and it works them off. 

The letters ch. mean chain. 

" d. c. " double crochet, 

tr. " treble " 

It would take volumes to describe all the different stitches used in crochet work 
and the articles that can lie done in crochet. Only a few useful, pretty and easily made 
articles, that cost little for materials and do not consume so much time as to 
become wearisome in the working, will be here described. 

AFGHAN STITCH. 

Afghan stitch is worked with a long straight bone needle made specially for the 
purpose. A chain of the desired length is made, the needle is inserted into the 
second chain stitch from the end nearest the needle, and the thread pulled through, 
which makes a loop on the needle. This is kept on and the needle inserted into 
the next stitch and another loop raised in the same way, every loop raised being 
kept on the needle. Proceed in this way till all the chain stitches have been taken 
up. Now twist the thread once around the needle and pull the needle, witli the 
thread, through the last loop made. Twist the thread around the needle again and 
pull it through the next loop. Proceed thus till all the loops are worked oil, then 
make one chain stitch and put the needle through the long upright thread which is 
formed by the last loop worked off. Pull the thread up and keep it on the needle 
as in the first row. put the needle through the next long thread and pull the thread 



12 

up to form another loop. Do this tall you come to the end of the row, then work 
the loops off the needle as in the first row. Before commencing to take up the 
loops al the beginning of each row make one chain stitch to keep the edge even. 
This work always curls up into a roll when several rows have been made, but it 
only requires t" be ironed on the wrong side with a hot iron to become quite flat. The 

iron musl QOt be hot enough to BCOrch it. Tliis Mitch makes linn, thick wink, well 

adapted to the making of children's carriage robes, invalids 1 slippers, ladies' house 
sacques, or anj thing to which warmth is requisite. 

Baby's Carriage Robe in Afghan Stitch. 

Materials : Zephyr in two colors, embroidery silk in the same colors and a I e 

Afghan needle of suitable size. We will suppose the zephyr selected is white and 
pink, an equal quantity of each. Make a square of the white zephyr, each side ol 
the square to measure three and a hair inches, then one of.the pink of equal 
size. Make as man) squares of each as you think the robe will require. With the 
embroider) silk make, in cross or long stitches, an ornamental figure in the centei 
of each square, using white silk on the pink squares ami pink silk on the while 
ones. Sew the squares neatl) together, a pink ami a white alternating till the 
desired width of the robe is obtained. In the following rows sew a white square 
under a pink ami a pink under a white, till the robe is large enough. Crochet a row 
of i,oie> ail around the outside edge, by beginning at one corner, fastening the 
thread to the work and making five chain. Fasten to the work with a treble 
si itch, then three chain. Fasten with a treble as before and go around the whole 
edge in this way. Do not make the holes too close together so as to make a too 

full appearance, or too far apart to draw the work. At each corner, just exactl) at 
the corner, put two trebles in One hole as the corner must he a little lull. \\ lii 'ii 

this row of holes is finished (the) should be made with the pink wool), with the 
same colored wool, make in the corner hole three treble stitches, then two chain. 
then three treble in the same hole, make one chain, pass over the nest hole and 
fasten to the middle chain stitch of the second hole b) putting the needle through 
the chain, drawing the thread up and through the loop on the needle, make one 
chain stitch, pass ovei the next hole ami into the secend, make three treble, two 
chain and three treble as at first . then proceed as before from . When this row is 
done work seven treble stitches into the two chain stitches which form the center 

ol the row of Shells just worked, then two chain and fasten into the place where 

tin ■chain was fastened in the previous row. two more chain and seven trebles 

in the center of the next shell. Proceed thus till you have gone all around. This 
row c pletes the border, [f seven treble stitches make the border look too full. 

put Old) five. Some | pie crochet so tight am! others SO loose that one must 

generally use her own judgment in deciding on the fullness or scant) appearance 

of the shells. The squares also may he made larger or smaller to suit the workei 's 

Dolls' Dresses in Double Crochet. 

A ■• colored " or " nigger "' doll can he beautifully dressed as a man. in pants and 

swallow tail coat, done in this simple stitch, and will please little folks better than 

iild the most richly dressed doll, I'm' the eoat select the brightest scarlet 

ephyr. Make a chain long enough to meet within three-quarters of an inch 

ind the doll's waist. (Be sure to leave this space.) Put your needle into the 

sei in! stitch on the chain at the end nest the needle. 1 'nil the thread up, twisl it 
around the needle and draw it through the two loops on the needle at once. This 
makl the double crochet stitch. Put the needle through the next chain stitch and 



13 

proceed as befoi-e. When you reach the end of the chain, turn the work, make one 
chain stitch, and put the needle through the thread which forms the back part of 
the row of chain stitches formed by working the first row, and which run along 
the top of the work. After having come to the end of this row, turn the work, 
make one chain stitch and proceed as in the first row— always make a chain stitch 
at the end of every row to keep the sides even. 

When several rows have been worked thus, it may be necessary to increase the 
work some, as the body of the doll is larger toward the shoulders than at the waist. 
To do this, make two stitches in the fifth stitcH from each end of the row, work 
tin 1 several rows without increasing any, then increase again it necessary, which 
can be ascertained by measuring the doll's figure. When enough work has been 
made to reach almost up to the doll's anus, measure the width across the top and 
mark it off into thirds, putting a piece of white thread to mark the divisions. 
Suppose you have :!:i stitches, count, ten from one of the front edges, put the white 
thread into the eleventh stitch, count ten from the other trout edge and put another 

thread into the eleventh stitch. Now begin to crochet as before, but when you 
come to the ninth stitch turn the work and work back to the edge, then turn and 
work hack to the place where you tu rued before. Do this till you have a piece worked 
long enough to come up above the doll's arm, as in the front arm-hole of a dress. 
Break oil' the wool and work a piece exactly the same on the other front edge. 
Break the wool again and commence working across the back, leaving a space of 
two stitches at each end between the white threads and your work. When you 
have a piece done as long as the front pieces, break off the wool ami begin at one 
edge and work a row clear across, joining the three pieces together. Try it on the 
doll and mark where the shoulders come. For a row or two the work may have to 
be increased, but of that the worker must be the judge, being guided by the form 
of the doll. As you work toward the neck you will have to decrease several times 
to make the neck small enough. Do this by omitting to crochet every stitch, 
passing nver one and putting the needle into the next stitch. Several stitches maj 
be passed over llms in one row. but leave some space bet ween the dropped stitches. 
When \ou reach the last row of the neck, break oft the scarlet wool and tie on the 
yellow and work three or four rows for a collar, which must be turned down after- 
ward like the collar of a coat. Now divide the lower part of the coat exactly in two 

pieces and mark the middle with a white thread. Begin 1>\ tying the scarlet wool 
on in the middle stitch and work across half way to the front edge, turn and work 
back to the middle, and back toward the front again, but leave the last stitch in the 
last row unraised and work back. Continue working back and forth, leaving off 
one stitch at the front edge every row. till the coat tail, which this forms, seems 
long enough. But remember it has yet to have two rows of yellow worked around 
it, which must be allowed for in considering its length. Work the other side of the 
coat the same way. Join the yellow wool at the neck and work two rows of yellow- 
clear around the coat. Make the sleeves the size required. Make them in a flat 
piece and sew in alter sewing up the side seam. Finish with yellow. 

For the pants take blue wool. Make a chain which will meet around the waist 
easily. Crochet back and forth three or four rows. Put in a white thread to mark 
the hips and one at the center in the back. Increase at each row in the center and 
every other row at the hips, for several rows, then stop increasing at the hips and 
only increase every other row at the center. Try it on the doll. When it seems 
large enough begin to work the legs of the pants. Find the center of the lower 
part of the piece worked, and work back and forth for several rows, neither 
increasing or decreasing. When half of the leg is worked begin to decrease a little 
by leaving unraised a stitch at one edge— tirst one at one edge and the next at tin- 
opposite side. W r hen the leg is long enough break the wool off and with the yellow 



11 

wool work three rows at the bottom to correspondent with the coat. Sew the Legs 
up and turn inside '>ni to bring the seam inside. Sew brass buttons on the Bleeves, 
down the Front and at the back above the tails of the coat, and on the Front "i the 
pants, [ron out both coat and pants before putting them on the doll. 

Doll Dressed as a Girl 

Make the dress in the same stitch. Begin a1 the bottom by making ;i chain so 
long tliiit when doubled it will make the dress the proper width. Join the two ends 
of the chain and crochet around and around. As the skirt progresses toward the 
waist, gradually decrease by skipping stitches as before directed. 1>" cot make it 
tit closelj at tlif waist but keep ii loose, as in a w rapper a little fullness, but onlj 
a very little, being Deeded at the top of the skirt or it will look Blimsy. Around 
the bottom of the skirt work a row of sin lis or scallops of a different color from the 
skirt. Draw through the skirt at the waist a narrow ribbon to tie it on by. .Now 
work the sacque, which is done like the upper part of the hoy's coat, lmt is finished 
all around with a border of shells. The larger the dolls the better they will look 
when dressed. 

LAMBREQUIN IN DOUBLE CROCHET. 

This is an entirely new pattern, very pretty and easy to work. Make a chain as 
long as yon wish your lambrequin to lie in depth, remembering that a scallop is to 
go on afterward, which must he allowed tor, so make the chain about an inch or an 
inch and a half shorter than the real depth required. Ten inches is a good depth 
without the fringe. The material used should he macreme cord or seine twine. 
Crochet a chain nine and one half inches long and one chain stitch more. Turn 
and into the chain work, in double crochet, a piece time and one-hall' inches long. 
Then make a chain two and a hall inches long and fasten into the long chain two 
and a half inches from the place where yon left off working the double crochet. 
Work in double crochet tor three and a half inches more, which w ill he. or should 
be. to the end of the chain first made. Make one chain stitch and turn into the 

first stitch. Work in double crochet, putting the needle through both stitch. 
the chain which is seen along the top of the work just made. This makes a thick, 
firm stitch. When you come to the end of the double crochet, make a chain two 
and a half inches long as before and fasten with a double crochet stitch into the 

first stitch of the double crochet in the preceding row . Work to the end. make one 
chain, turn the work, miss the lust stitch and work in double crochet as in the lirst 
row. Continue thus till five rows have been made. This will find the needle at 
the bottom of the work. Without turning the work twist the thread around your 
needle and into the hole between the third and fourth rows [that is the hole at the 
bottom, between those two rows.) Work seven treble stitches and fasten the last 
.■He down upon the end Of the lirst row worked. Turn and make a double crochet 
stitch between each of the treble Stitches. This forms the bottom shell or scallop. 
Work live more rows of double Crochet as before and make another scallop at the 
bottom. Remember when you work the double crochet between the trebles that in 

crocheting the next row of double crochet you i d not make the one chain as you 

e not Obliged to turn the work on this row. Make the lambreipi'm the length you 
w ish and when done run through the row of holes, the tWO inches of chain stitches 
I , a bright colored ribbon, leaving three or four of the chains above and as 

in.. below the ribbon. Cut fringe as long as you wish from a hank of the cord 

and fasten it into the small holes between the double stitches of the SCallOp. Make 

the fringe quite deep. Double each thread, push the doubled end through one ol 
the holes and the ends through the doubled part and draw tight. 



15 

LAMBREQUIH IN SHELLS. 

Make a chain eleven or twelve inches long. Turn and into the fourth stitch of 
tlic chain work three treble stitches, make two chain stitches and work three more 
trebles into the same stitch as the other trebles are. Skip two stitches of the chain 
and into the next one work the same number of trebles. Skip two more stitches 
and work into the next another shell like, the first two. Make live chain, or seven 
as you like, and fasten to any stitch on the first chain made, that will make the 
two chains of the same length. This will form the row of holes through which the 
ribbon is to be drawn when the lambrequin is finished. So if they are either too 
large or too small you must alter them now to suit your taste. When you deride 
where to fasten the chain fasten it with a treble, which will form the first treble ol 
another shell. Work three shells exactly like the first three. Make three chain, 
turn the work and make a shell in the two chain in the center of the first shell and 
make a shell on each shell of the first row. When you come to the place where the 
chain in the last row was made, make a chain exactly as long in this row. At the 
end of the row make three chain, turn and work back till you come to where the 
chain must be made. If you have made five chain stitches in the former rows 
make two now and put your needle through the third stitch of each of the other 
chains, draw the thread through and fasten with a double crochet stitch. Make 
two chain and fasten with a treble into the center of the next shell. This joins 
the chain into an hour-glass form and must be made at every third row. and when 
the lambrequin is finished will form the places through which the ribbon is drawn. 
Having worked to the bottom of the row make nine chain and join to the bottom 
of the last shell on the first row, make one chain stitch and turn, work a double 
crochet stitch in the hole made by the nine chain, twist the thread around the 
needle, put into the same hole and draw up the thread, twist the thread around the 
needle and draw it through all the loops at once. Make nine treble into the same 
hole, then a stitch like the last described, then a double crochet stitch. Make a, 
chain stitch and work bacK in the same way, putting the stitches between the last 
made stitches. Make one chain stitch and work a stitch in double crochet between 
every one of these stitches, then two chain stitches and fasten by a treble stitch in 
the center hole of the last made shell, then two more treble, two chain and three 
more treble into the same hole and continue to work up and down as before, 
making shells and lengths of chain stitches as before, remembering to join the 
chains in the center every third row. Four rows must thus be made, then nine 
chain must be made for the bottom scallop and joined to the bottom of the fourth 
shell, where the two chain forming the last of the first scallop was fastened. This 
scallop must be made at every fourth row throughout the remainder of the work, 
though the first was made the third row. When the lambrequin is long enough 
put ribbon of any preferred color through the large holes, and put the fringe 
between the holes made by the double stitches in the scallop. Iron out the work 
on the wrong side when finished, before putting the ribbon in. 

Shopping Bag in Double Crochet 

Make tliis pretty and useful article of macreme cord and line with satin. Make 
a chain fifteen or sixteen inches long and join in a circle, work around and around 
in double crochet, putting the thread through both stitches of the chain that shows 
along the top of the first row. When you have worked seven inches deep, make a 
row of holes on the top of the work formed of live chain stitches each. On the top 
of these work a plain row of scallops, by working seven treble stitches into one 
hole, missing the next one and fastening the last treble after making one chain stitch 
after it to the third chain stitch in the second hole, then another chain stitch and 



16 

fasten it with a treble in the second hole, this treble forming the Orel ol the seven 
trebles worked in the same hole. Work around the bottom ;i row of small holes 
and sru up the bottom, being careful to make the boles come opposite each other. 
Take a piece of cardboard three and a half inches long and as wide as you like and 

wind your cord around it lengthwise. When you have wound a g t deal cut one 

end close to the card board. This makes the fringe, the length of which is seven 
and, a half inches. Take three or four pieces of the fringe, double them and put 
through two of the holes in the bottom of the bag, slip the loose ends through the 
doubled part and draw them tight. This will make a knotted fringe. Now line 
the bag by taking a piece of crimsi i any other bright colored satin, fourteen 

inches in length. Cut it as wide as the hair is, run up the Bide seam and around 

the bottom. At the top- fold a hem three inches wide. An inch and a half above 
the hem run a thread around, which with the hem will form a casing through 
which the handle of the bag is to be drawn. This handle maybe cither a ribbon 
the exact color of the lining, or may be a long narrow piece crocheted in double 

crochet to match the bag. Sew the lining into the bag, making the bottom of the 

lining reach the bottom of the crocheted part. The top part of the bag being 
formed of satin. A bag in double crochet, ribbed, would he beautiful. For a 

description Of the stitch see " Slippers in Double Crochet, liibbed." 

Shopping Bag in Dotted Afghan Stitch. 

Dotted Afghan stitch is easilj made, [t is just like plain Afghan, only when 
the loops are worked off the needle, after dropping two or three off in the usual 
manner, make three chain, then drop another loop as usual. Drop lour more, then 
make three chain, drop live loops and make three chain again. These three chain 
form the dots, which are seen as the work progresses, and look pretty. A tt'i 

making one row of dots, two rows must be worked plain and then another row of 
dots be worked, which may be just abo\e the others in the lirst row. or may come 
in between them, as the worker prefers. The bag must be crocheted in a Hat piece 
ami then sewed up at the side, so you must make a chain fifteen or sixteen inches 
long and must not join it into a circle as was done in the double crochet bag. If 

you would prefer the bag to be made wholly of thecrochel without a top part of 

satin make it the size you wish and make a row of lather large holes around the 

lop before crocheting the scallops so that the handle may pass freely through them. 

No lining is then required. Trim with ribbon bows and put a fringe aro I the 

bottom, as in the lirst bag described. 

Shopping Bag in Shell Stitch. 

Make a Chain seven inches long. Turn and work three treble into the fourth 
chain stitch, make two chain, then three more treble in the same hole as the other 
three. This makes the lirst shell. Miss two stitches of the chain ami work 
another shell in the next stitch. Continue in I in- same manner till the chain is full 
Of shells. Make three chain, turn the work and make shells in the center holes of 
the shells of the lirst row. No chain stitches are made between the shells, but 
when the last treble of one is made proceed to make the lirst treble of the next shell. 

VJtej you have worked a piece sixteen or eighteen inches long sew the two sides 
her and work a row of small holes around the bottom for the fringe as directed 

ill the double crochet bau r . Then WOl k scallops around the upper part as iii the one 

in double crochet. Line the bag with satin, leaving several inches of the satin 

al I he lop of the bag, making a casing in the satin for the handle, the latter to 

l ibbon or a llat, narrow strip of crochet worked in double crochet. 



17 

SLIPPERS IN AFGHAN STITCH. 

Crocheted slippers are very comfortable for people troubled with corns or 
bunions to wear about the house, or for invalids, and are so easily made, every one 
who can crochet should have a pair. Afghan stitch, both plain and dotted, has 
already been described ; you may use either. Take some dark colored Germantowrj 
knitting yarn, or double zephyr if you prefer it, and some scarlet for the trimming. 
Cut a shape out of paper, using for the purpose a slipper belonging to the person for 
whom the slippers are to be made. The sides and front are made in two pieces. 
Begin by making a chain long enough to reach across the upper and widest part of 
the slipper. Work back taking up each stitch of the chain and retaining the loops 
on the needle, and working them off in the next row as before described. As the 
pattern narrows toward the toe the work must be narrowed to correspond. This is 
done by working off two loops at once at the ends of the rows as if they were but 
one. The narrowing process may not be required at the end of every row ; the 
worker must be guided in this by the paper pattern. When the fore part of the 
slipper has been finished, begin one of the sides, which are to be worked separate 
from the other part and then sewed to it. Work the sides in the same manner, 
working the rows the short way of the pattern, so that the chain which runs through 
the loops of Afghan stitch will be parallel with those of the fore part. When you 
have sewed the sides to the front, work around the part which is to be sewed to the 
sole, a row in double crochet, and then line the slipper with either flannel or silk. 
Then around the top of the slipper crochet a row of holes, three chain joined with a 
treble to the slipper, forming the holes. In these holes work a scallop, composed 
of live treble in one hole, then make, one chain, slip over one hole and fasten on the 
centre stitch of the next hole, make one chain and five trebles in the next hole, and 
so on till the work is complete. If live trebles are too few to make a full scallop 
use seven or more. The holes and scallops are to be worked with the scarlet or 
other bright wool. Run a narrow ribbon through these holes to tie in front; this 
is to draw it to lit the foot in case it should be a little too large. The slipper is now 
ready to be fastened to the sole, which is perforated with holes for the purpose. 
Turn the slipper outside in and with a needle threaded with strong, black, shoe- 
maker's thread, or with very strong linen thread, sew the slipper to the sole, putting 
the needle in and out through the holes in the sole. When finished turn the slipper 
right side out and cut an inner sole of thick paper. Cover with the same material 
as the lining of the slipper and put it in to hide the stitches and make it warmer 
for the feet. These perforated soles are made specially for this purpose. Some 
arc covered on the inside with sheep skin with the wool on, and are very warm. 
Others are only covered with Canton flannel and are cheaper than the first. Any 
first-class shoe stoic in a large town can supply them, or a piece of soft leather may 
be procured from a shoe-maker, and cut in the shape of a sole by the worker and 
sewed on the same way. But of course the ones made for the purpose are preferable 
and can be sent through the mail to any place for a few cents. 

Slippers in Double Crochet-Ribbed. 

This is another and very excellent way of making slippers. Make a chain long 

enough to reach across the toe of the slipper. The chain must have eleven, thirteen 

or some other uneven number of stitches. In the center stitch, fasten a white 

thread. Make one more chain stitch, turn and work across in double crochet stitch, 

put in the center stitch, marked by the white thread, work three stitches in double 

crochet. This will form a point which will be the pointed top of the slipper when 

finished. Work back in double crochet, remembering to put three stitches into the 

center stitch, which will now be the middle one of the three worked in the first row. 
3 



IS 

The next row is also in double crochet but instead of putting the needle through 
the chain running across the last row, put it through the short horizontal stitch 
Been on the back part of the former row, just below the chain. Raise the thread 
through this stitch and work off as in ordinary double crochet. Work across the 
row in this way, always inserting the needle into this short, horizontal stitch and 
pulling the thread up as usual. Do not forget to work the three stitches in the 

center stitch in this row as in the others. When you leach the curl of the row make 
one chain as you did al the end of the other rows ami must always do this all 
through the work to keep the edges even. Work back as you did in the last row, 
taking up the short horizontal stitch, which is the waj you are to do in every row. 
After working a feu rows you will sec that this makes the work in ridges, the chain 
which runs across each row being left on the outside, forming ridges or ribs, in- 
crease as the work requires by extra stitches at each edge. The sides of the slippers 
are to be worked the same way, crocheting across the short way to make the ribs 
run as the ones on the fore part of the slipper do. Line, trim and finish as in the 
slippers in Afghan stitch. 

SACQUES AND SKIRTS IN CROCHET. 

For children, and ladies also, warm and handsome house saccpies and under- 
skirts can he worked in crochet. Afghan and double crochet . either plain or ribbed, 
are stitches well adapted for these purposes as they make thick, warm material and 
are so easily done. The pattern of the sacques should be cut out of paper and the 
worker should be guided by them, always beginning at the widest pari. which in a 
sacque is at the bottom and decreasing as the work demands. Some times, as in 

the front of a sacque, where the work is narrower at the arm-hole and increases at 

the shoulder, the work must be increased at the ends of the rows to correspond 
with the pattern. This is but little trouble to do after a short experience. The 
various pieces must he sewed neatl> together when finished and a trimming of 

seal lo] is worked around the edge. Skirts may he made in separate widths or all in 

one piece as the worker prefers, if the} are large it would be more convenient to 

work them in breadths. The wool in which they are done may he either of line or 

coarse quality. If for a baby the line soft kinds must he used. A beautiful edging 
to trim either a sacque or skirt is made thus: Crochet a chain long enough to 
go loosely around what you wish to trim and half as long again. Work on it five 
stitches in double crochet, in the next stitch work three double crochet stitches, 
work one double crochet stitch into each of the next five stitches of the chain, skip 
two chain stitches and make live more double crochet stitches in the next 
live chain, then three double crochet stitches in the next stitch, five 
double crochet stitches in the next live chain, miss two chain stitches, and 
make live more double crochet stitches as before. Continue thus till the end of the 
chain is reached, then break oil the wool and tie it on to the end where you first 
commenced. Work just as in the last row. After six or eight rows have been 
done it will form a pointed and fluted trimming which is verj pretty. Sew it onto 
what you wish to trim. It looks best to make it in two colors, as blue and white. 
the chain and the first two rows to be blue, the two following rows white, then blue 
and for the next two. white for the next two. and so on. It is more showy when 
the wool is thick, as in zephyr or Cermantown wool. 

SCALLOP FOR EDGING. 

This is a very handsome scallop, suitable as an edging for many articles, such as 

mats, sacques, etc. Fasten the wool to the edge of the material and make three 

chain, fasten by a treble in the same hole, the three chain forming the first treble. 



19 

make two chain and then two trebles in the same stitch as the other two are in, 
miss two stitches on the work and fasten with a double crochet stitch in the next 
stitch, miss two more stitches and make two treble stitches in the next, then two 
chain stitches and two more trebles in the same stitch. When you have gone 
around the article in this way, making three trebles instead of two at the corners 
if there are any, begin the next row by fastening the thread on the double crochet 
stitch between the scallops and fasten with a double stitch in the center of one of 
the scallops in the last row. Then make three chain stitches and fasten with a 
double stitch into the same hole, make three more chain, fasten in the same place, 
make three more chain, fasten in the same place with a double crochet stitch. This 
will make three open loops on the edge of the scallop. Fasten the thread with a 
double crochet stitch on the double crochet of the last row, then into the center of 
the next scallop, and proceed as before to make three open loops on it. Make live 
on the corner scallops. It makes the work lie Hat when the corners are a little 
fuller than the rest of the work. 

STAR STITCH. 

This is an elegant stitch, suitable tor scarfs, sacques, skirts, etc. Make a chain as 
long as desired and a stitch more, turn and raise live loops as in Afghan stitch on 
five of the chain stitches, work them all off at once by pulling the thread through 
them all at one pull, and then pull the thread through the one loop now on the 
needle. This fastens them and makes the first star. Insert the needle into the 
hole just formed by drawing the thread through the loop, and raise another loop, 
keep it on the needle, raise another loop by putting the needle through the long 
stitch that forms the back of the last loop of the star, and pulling the thread through. 
There are now three loops on the needle, keep them there and raise two more by 
putting the needle through the two next stitches of the chain. There are now live 
loops, draw the thread through all at once, draw the thread through the one loop, 
now on the needle and this forms the second star. Make all the others in the same. 
way. When you get, to the end of the chain break off the wool leaving about three 
inches of thread. Fasten the thread to the first star on the chain stitch made before 
commencing the star, make three chain, raise a loop in the second stitch of the 
chain, and one in the first, raise another by putting the needle through the back 
part of the first loop of the first star, raise another by putting the needle through 
the back part of the short stitch, which forms the hole in which the loops of the 
first star are joined. Pull the thread through all the live loops, then through the 
one loop. This is the first star of the second row. The next is made by putting 
the needle through the hole just made bj fastening the loops of the star together 
and raising a loop, then put the needle through the back part of the stitch forming 

the last loop of the star just made, raise another loop, put the needle through the 
long stitch forming the back part of the first loop of the second star in the first row . 
then raise t lie ill ill loop by putting the needle through the back part of the short 
stitch, which forms the center of the same star, and raising the loop in the usual 
way. work off the live loops and pull the thread through to join them as in the 
other stars. Work all the other stars in the row thus. At the end of every row 
the wool must be broken off, and the first star of every row made as the first one of 
the second row. If you object to breaking off the wool at every row, at the end of 
the fust row make a chain stitch, turn and work back in double crochet taking up 
each horizontal stitch on the back part of the work, then work a row of shells as 
has been described. It will not look so pretty but is easier. Every other row is in 
double stitch. All the loops should be made loosely, but not so loose as to look 
untidy, just so as not to draw. 



20 

WRISTLETS. 

These useful winter cuffs for the wrists are worked in double crochet, either 
plain or ribbed, Make a chain that, when joined in a circle, will slip easilj ovei 
the person's hand for whom the wristlets are to be made, and work around and 
around till it is long enough. Finish at each end with scallops. Reversible 
w ristlets are worked in two colors, half the wristlet, for instance, being black, the 
other half red. They can be worn then t<> match either a black or red dress. 

EMBROIDERY. 

The two kinds of embroider] now most fashionable are Kensington and outline. 
Both these are really one stitch, but outline embroidery is used onlj for working 
around the outlines of a figure, as its name implies, while the term Kensington 
embroidery is used when the figures are filled in with the same stitch the stitch 
following the " grain," so to speak, of the figure instead of its mil line. 

OUTLINE STITCH. 

There could be no stitch more simple than this, but it is verj difficult to describe. 
It is a kind of side stitch, generally about a quarter of an bach in length, sometimes 
longer, sometimes shorter as the work demands- -small figures requiring a very 
short stitch, large ones a long one. Suppose the worker wishes to make a large ivj 
leaf on linen crash with red embroider; cotton. Thread the needle with a rather 
short thread and malic a good sized knot on it. Begin at the top of the leaf, push 
the needle up through the linen (which is supposed to be ahead; stamped with the 
figure of the leaf), at the very highest tip of the leaf draw t lie tinea, i through, about 

a quarter of an inch from where the thread now is and exactly on the stamped line. 

push the point of the needle through the linen to the under side, but instead of 
drawing it clear through to the under side push the point hack to the upper side 1 
again, an eighth or tenth of an inch farther up toward the place where it came up 
first; draw the thread through and there will he made a stitch with the thread 
coming out at a point a little higher than where it went through to the wrong side. 
Again, put the needle's point into the cloth a quarter of an inch below the place 
when- the thread comes through, then push the point back to the right side of the 

material an eighth Or tenth Of an inch bigher up than where it was put in. and 
draw the thread through. This makes a second stitch. Every stitch is made in the 
same way and they may he made much longer or much shorter, hut are always the 

same when worked, and are all made on the line of the stamping so as to quite 

conceal it when the work is finished. Make the stitches rather loosely or the work 
will draw. In turning the points and coiners of small leaves and in working child- 
ren's faces and figures the stitches must be very small, and the fineness or coarseness 
of the thread used in the embroidery must he determined bj the Bize of the figure 

embroidered. When the outlines of a leaf are made, the middle vein anil o ir 

two side ones are made. 

The articles for which this embroidery is most generally used are cambric or 

linen aprons, pillow shams, bed spreads, toilette mats, splashers, tidies, and covers 

for small stands or tables. The materials used in making these must always ha\ 8 

plain surfaces, linen or cambric for aprons, muslin for pillow shams and lied 

pleads. Toilette mats, tidies and splashers are most serviceable made of linen 

ciash and butcher's linen, hoth of which are made special]] for the purpose, being 

soft and line. Small table covers may he either of wide, White, butcher's linen. 

cream colored linen, or sateen. The thread best adapted to working upon these 
materials is Turkey red or navy blue embroider] cotton where line cotton is 



21 

necessary, though some use washing silks. When a coarse thread or one not 
extremely line can be used it is much cheaper to buy a hank of what is called 
German knitting cotton, which comes in Turkey red and navy blue .and is really 
the same thing as the embroidery cotton, but it is not quite so fine as the higher 
numbers of embroidery cotton and is put up in very large hanks, one hank contain- 
ing as much material as many dozens of skeins of embroiderj cotton. It is this 
which makes it so much cheaper, as a hank only costs as much as a dozen skeins 
of the embroidery cotton. Red is better than navy blue, for it looks much prettier 
and never gels dull with washing or exposure to the air and sun, and maj he boiled 
without injury. 

A lovely, cheap, easilj made tidy that will stand any amount of rough usage, will 
never lade, and will last for years, may he had by buying one of those linen towels 
now so fashionable, which have figures, as a swan in water, a peacock, a stag, a 
balloon, or sonic such thing, woven in the center, as a table cloth has figures woven 
in it. The figure can be seen by holding the towel in the proper light. Select one 
of these and with a lead pencil trace the outlines of the figure so that the pencil 
marks will look like stamping. With Turkey red German knitting cotton work 
around in outline stitch. Do not draw the stitches tight or the work will look 
drawn, rf the pencil mark rubs out trace only a small part of the figure at mire, 
work that and draw more. The fringe at the ends of the towel is the trimming of 
the ends of the tidy when done. A bed spread to match the pillow shams can he 
made by purchasing the wide cotton sheeting, which requires no seam up the center 
as it is made from two to two anil a hall' yards wide, and stamping the same pattern 
in the center of the spread that is on the pillow shams, the figure being enlarged to 
correspond with the size of the spread. Iron all work on the wrong side when done. 
For designs for this purpose see article on stamping. 

KEHSIHGTOM EMBROIDERY. 

The stitch is made just the same as that of outline embroidery, as before stated, 
but in Kensington embroidery the outlines are not to be worked. If one wishes to 
embroider a leaf, the outlines must not lie worked, but having selected several 
shades of green to make it light or dark as the shading requires, begin at the top of 
the leaf and work the stitches in a slanting direction on each side of the center vein 
of the leaf, the slant to be in a downward direction towards the stem. The veins 
are to be worked in in dark colors after the leaf is Idled up. If one is working with 
a painted pattern for a guide it will show where the shading comes in, if not one 
must be careful to see that it is put in right by deciding from which side the light 
is to fall and Keep it in mind all the time one is working. The stems are to he 
worked in the same stitch and the centers of flowers and the yellow anthers in 
French knots. Kensington embroidery is usually worked with embroidery silk, 
chenille or crewels, on felt, satin, plush, silk velvet or other rich materials. Lam- 
brequins, tidies, pincushions, sofa and chair cushions, are some of the many articles 
to the making of which it is applied. Embroidery hoops are generally used in 
working this stitch to keep the cloth from drawing. 

FRENCH KNOTS. 

These are used in embroidery for making the anthers or tips of the stamens of 
the flowers, and some flowers, as daisies and wild roses, have the entire center 
filled with them. The knot is made by taking hold of the thread near the cloth 
with the left hand and holding it straight while with the right hand the wower 
twists the needle around the thread near the cloth three or four times and then 



■2-2 

puts the point of the needle down through the cloth at almost the s; place at 

which the thread comes up through the cloth, and draw the thread through to the 
wrong side of the cloth, pull tight and the knot is made. Push the needle up to 
the right aide and repeat the process till as man] knots arc made as are required. 

RIBBON EMBROIDERY. 

This embroider} is worked upon the same materials as are used in Kensington. 
Instead of embroidery silk or crewels narrow ribbons about an eighth of an inch 
wide are used to sew with. They are usual]; employed to make flowers that have 
only a single row of narrow petals, such as daisies, stars of Bethlehem, single asters 
and other flowers such as these. The centres are worked in French knots and the 

petals in ribbon. The materials can be obtained at any large fancy g is store. 

The work is very rich looking as only the finest quality of ribbon is used. 

Feather-edge Braid Trimming. 

It would lie best for lailies who have weak eyes not to attempt to do this work. 
as it is very trying to the eyes and is tedious besides. The materials needed area 
bunch of feather-edge braid, a steel crochet needle and a spool of Clark's or ( loats' 
sew ing cotton. The finer the braid and the thread used the prettier will In- the work. 
but it will be more tiresome to make than when coarse braid and thread are used. 

Edging in Feather-edge Braid. 

\ pretty edging is made thus : Count ten loops from the end of the braid and 

fasten the thread in the tenth loop, make seven chain rather tightly worked, miss 
two loops and fasten with a double crochet stitch into the third loop. Make five 
more chain, miss two loops and fasten with a d. c. stitch to the third loop, make 

five more chain, miss two loops, fasten into the third as before, make one chain, 
miss one loop, make a double crochet stitch in the next loop, make one chain, miss 
one loop, make a d. C. stitch into the next loop. Continue doing this till five loops 
have been missed and six double crochet stitches made, then make two chain, put 

the needle through the center stitch of the five chain just opposite and draw the 
thread through, make two more chain, miss two Loops and fasten with a double 
crochet stitch into the third, make two chain and put the needle into the center of 

the live chain Opposite, draw the thread through and proceed as before till the top 
is reached opposite the place when- I he seven chain were made, but before fastening 
to the last loop make four chain instead of two. Fold the braid backward so that 
the loops of one side lie opposite those of the side just worked, put the needle 
through the first tWO loops and pull the thread through them— this makes a loop 

like an Afghan loop retain it on the needle and put the needle through two more 

holes, raise another loop. Proceed so until eight loops ar i the needle, then work 

them oil 111 Afghan stitch. When the top is reached make seven st itches and pro- 
ceed exactlj as in making the lirsl scallop. When it is made turn the braid back 
anil make the Afghan stitches as In lore. 

Insertion in Feather-edge Braid. 

Insertion to match this edging is made as follows : Fasten the thread on the 

tenth loop from the end of the braid, make five chain, fasten it with a treble stitch 

11 o the next loop t he live chain make the fust treble. Make five more trebles in 

tin next five loops. Miss seven loops, into the next seven make seven trebles, miss 
e\c. loops, into the next seven make seven trebles. I >< i this till I he pure is as 



23 

long as desired. Thru begin to work on the opposite side of the braid. Where the 
seven loops were missed on the other side of the braid, make seven trebles on this 
side. Where seven trebles are worked on the other side, on this side miss seven 
loops. In this way, as will be seen, seven trebles are worked on this side, always 
above the missed seven loops on the other side. When all is done, fasten the thread 
on the top of the fourth treble, on either side make a chain long enough to reach to 
the top of the fourth treble in the next group of trebles and fasten it there with a 
double crochet stitch. Do this till the end of tbe piece is reached. Then work the 
same on the other side. On the chain work a row of plain boles by making one 
chain and missing one stitch on the chain just made and fastening it. with a treble 
stitch into the next one on the chain. For the lirst hole make three chain. 

ANOTHER EDGIMG. 

A wider and more elaborate edging is made as follows : Miss twelve loops of 
the braid and fasten the thread into the thirteenth. Make seven chain, miss two 
loops and fasten with a double crochet iii the next loop, make live, chain, miss two 
loops, fasten into the next loop as before, make three more holes like this last, then 
make seven chain, miss one loop fasten into the next with a d. c, make live chain 
and fasten into the third stitch of the seven chain, make five chain, miss three 
loops, fasten into the next, loop, make five chain fasten into the third stitch of the 
seven chain where the other five chain were fastened, make five chain, miss three 
loops and fasten into the next one, then make another live chain and fasten it into 
the third stitch of the seven chain as before. Do this till a star with six points 
is made, as these are the points of the star. Then make two chain and fasten it 
into the first stitch of the seven stitches. Make two chain, miss one loop of the 
braid, and fasten with a double stitch on the next loop. Make two chain and fasten 
in the center stitch of the live chain opposite, make two chain miss two loops and 
fasten into the next one. then make two chain and fasten to the center stitch of the 
opposite live chain. Do this till the lirst made seven chain are reached, fasten the 
two chain in to the fourth of this seven chain, make three chain, miss two loops, 
and fasten as usual to the third loop. Make one chain, fasten with a d. c. into the 
next loop, make one chain and fasten into the next. loop. Do this till seven loops 
are filled with a double crochet stitch— or eight including the one to which the 
three chain is fastened. Now make seven chain and work exactly as in making the 
lirst scallop. Proceed thus till all the braid is finished. It will hang loose and look 
queer, but remember it has to lie worked on the other side, in a nearly similar way, 
and will be all right in the end. When the end of the braid is reached break the 
thread off and come to the beginning, fasten the thread into the loop of the braid 
opposite to the loop on which the work was begun, make seven chain, miss one loop 
and fasten with a double crochet stitch to the next loop, make live chain, miss one 
loop and fasten into the next as before. Keep on making one chain, missing one. 
loop and fastening to the next, lill yon have worked all around the star and come 
opposite its last point, then make live chain, miss two loops and fasten into the 
next one. Do thus till the point is reached opposite to where the seven one 
chains were made and fastened into the loops. Make a double crochet stitch into 
the next, eight loops without any chain between them, then make two chain and 
fasten it into the center stitch of the last, live chain made, then make two chain and 
miss two loops, fastening with a double stitch in the next. Do this till two chain 
have been fastened into all the five stitches and work around the star as before, 
then commence to make the five stitches opposite the last point of the star. Pro 
ceed in this way till all the work is done, and make a chain along tbe end, which is 
to be the one next the cloth when it is sewed on, that bebig of course the edge that 
has no star. 



24 

INSERTION. 

Insertion to match this edging is made bj working a ^i;tr in both Bides of the 
braid, the second star being worked jusi like the first and the one chain and a 
double crochet stitch must be worked seven times as it was in the lirst row. A 
chain and a row of holes may be worked on the sides of the insertion to sew it to 
the muslin, but ;i chain alone will l><- sufficient and will Bave work. 

PAPER ORNAMENTS. 

[t is astonishing how many useful and beautiful articles for personal use and 
home adornment can be made of so simple and inexpensive a material as tissue 
paper. The most inexperienced person can readilj learn the art by merely reading 
the directions given, and the verj low cost of the paper brings it within the teach 
of many who might be unable to purchase materials for more costly fancy work. 

PAPER PANS. 

Those who have not seen tans made of this material cannot imagine how elegant 
thej are when properly made. The only materials required are a few sheet-, of 
white or light colored tissue paper and a medium or small sized palm leaf fan with 
a cane o] tane\ wood handle such as are sold in the stores at five cents each. The 
paper maj be either the common or the imported tissue paper, but for fans the 
common is the best kind to use. 

Take one of the sheets of paper and spread it out fiat upon a table. Tike hold 
ol each side of the paper, one side- in right and the' cither in the' left hand and gather 

the sides in folds as you would a dress pattern to see how it would look made up, 

then holding the side in the left hand tight, strip the paper through the right hand 
from the one side to the other. Then gather each side up again as before and draw 

through the right hand as directed. Keep doing this over and over, gathering it in 
as line folds as possible and stripping it through the hands as hard as it can be done 
without tearing the paper. Do not straighten the paper out smooth after drawing 

through the hand but pull it out a little to see whether the folds are small or large. 

After the paper has been subjected to this process for a long time it looks like crape. 
Continue to fold and strip through the fingers till it has just that appearance, and 
the folds must he extretueh small. Of course the paper must lie straightened out 
sufficiently to enable one to judge whether it has the desired crape-like appearance 

or not. When the paper is just right cut out two plain pieces of paper the size of 
the Ian and sew on i each side ol 'the fan. Then cut two pieces of the craped 

paper of the same size and sew one on each side of the fan. Thej must of course 
be sewed on only at the edge of the fan. Take another sheet of the tissue papei 
and fold and strip as before till it looks like crape, and cut it in lengths from four 

to six inches wide. These pieces an- to form the fringe which ornaments the edge 
of the Ian. and the fringe max he either wide or narrow as is preferred. A fringe 
a quarter of an inch wide is verj pretty, and if that width is selected double the 
strips cut for the fi inge and cut them in strips a quarter of an inch wide and as 
deep as desired, leaving a space half an inch wide between each side of tin- fringe. 
Put this around the edge of the fan like a binding and sew it on with very small 

3titches or a slip stitch, so that no stitches will l.e seen through the fringe. At the 
handle make the fringe full. The fringe should he cut so that the crimp runs cross- 
wise and not lengths ise of the paper. When the tan is used the Cringe which hangs 

down on each side of it will flutter up and down till it falls of itself in graceful 
positions. The only difficulty in making the tan is in getting the paper folded into 



25 

the small folds that give it the appearance of crape, but a little patience and prac- 
tice will soon enable any one to overcome this difficulty, and it' one or two sheets 
are spoiled at first the loss is so little one need not mind it. White fans are lovely 
and when colored ones are wanted select only very pale tints of the desired color. 

Fans to ornament the mantle piece maybe made of the large common palm leaf 
fans by covering them with paper as above described and in the center fastening a 
bunch of paper flowers. These look very pretty but are too heavj and large to be 
used for anything else than decoration. Directions for making the llowers will 
be given in another place. 

PAPER MATS. 

The paper for these lovely mats must be made crape-like by the same process as 
that described in making the fans. Imported tissue paper is best for mats as four 
or five shades are usually required for each mat and the common paper does not 
come in am great variety of shades. Suppose one wishes to make a pink mat. 
Select live shades, beginning with very deep pink and having the other four shades 
each a few degrees lighter than the other so that the last will be a very pale tint 
indeed. Cut a round piece of card board the size of the mat to be made. Crimp 
the paper in the manner described in directions for making tans. Cover the round 
piece ot card board with the darkest shade of paper, pasting its edges down on the 
wrong side of the card board. To make the fringe for the edge of the mat cut the 
paper into strips in the same way as was described in the directions for making the 
fringe of fans, but make the fringe longer, three and a half or four inches long will 
do, with a, plain piece of paper left between each edge of the fringe to sew it to the 
mat. Always cut the fringe so that the crimp runs crosswise and not lengthwise of the 
paper. Measure to find how long a piece of fringe will be required to go around the 
mat, lay the darkest shade (which should be the same as that with which the card 
board is covered) on the table, place the next darkest upon it, then the next upon 
that till all the shades are placed one above the other, the lightest being on the top. 
Baste them all together being careful not to let any of the long stitches show on 
the top, then baste the whole round the bottom of the mat. If it is desired to have 
a mat with a large center the card board must be cut a good deal larger than you 
wish it to appear when finished, as the fringe spreads over the center a good deal. 

PAPER LAMP SHADES. 

Pretty shades for the glass globes of lamps can be made by crimping the tissue 
paper in the manner before described and cutting it to tit the shade one wishes it to 
cover. The edges may lie either scalloped or left plain as desired. A pattern 
should first be cut out of newspaper so that there will be no mistake made in the 
tit when cut from the tinted paper. It must be cut flat and pasted up the side after 
being cut the proper size. 

Glove, Handkerchief and Work Boxes Made of Paper, 

A small or medium sized card board box, such as are used in dry goods stores, 
can be easily converted into a handsome and useful receptacle for handkerchiefs or 
other articles by covering it with crimped tissue paper of a delicate color and 
fastening upon the lid, after it is covered with the paper, a small bouquet of paper 
flowers. 

PAPER FLOWERS. 

Flowers can be made of imported tissue paper, which so nearly resemble natural 
ones as to be frequently mistaken for them. Being so easily made and the 
materials used so inexpensive, they do not require glass globes to protect them as 
is the case with wax flowers, for when faded they can be readily replaced at a very 
small cost of time and money. 



26 

Directions for Making Roses. 

[fa white or scarlel rose is desired, papei of onlj one .-.hade is needed the 
white may be either cream white or pure white but if a pink or yellow one is 
chosen two or three shades of color will be needed, the darker shade to be used in 
making the outer leaves and the lighter the inner ones. Wire covered with green 
paper or thread for the stems of (lowers and green cloth or paper leaves for the 
foliage can be purchased at stores whicb deal in materials for wax flowers. But it 
one does not wish to go to the expense of buying these, any piece of wire not too 
thick for the purpose may be covered with green paper by wrapping a narrow strip 

around it, and for the green leaves either old ones from a l ch that has been 

worn on a hat or bonnet may be used or they ma> be cut out of green paper that 
has first been crimped, though these do not look so natural. A paper pattern "i 

the petals or [eaves "I the rOS6 Bhould he cut from a natiin.l Sower v\ ith a piece nl 

paper about half an inch long left at the bottom to fasten it mi in the stem. The 

inner petals should be somewhat smaller than tl terones. Having cut nut a 

sufficient number of petals, curl the edges bj drawing them over a sharp scissors 
blade. < iover the wire used for the stem with green paper ami on one end of it tie ver j 
(irmly a piece of cotton, which must be of around shape. Over this piece of cotton 
place some small pieces of the lightest shade of paper and pinch them down with 
the lingers so that they cover the cotton completely ami form the heart of the ruse. 

They must In- fastened to the stem w ith past h\ wrapping very line wire tightly 

around them and the stem. Now put on a row of the smaller leaves of the lightest 
shade fastening them to the stem by either pasl wire as before. Proceed in 

this manner till all the petals are attached to the stem, placing the darkest ones on 

the outride row. Cut out of dark green paper lour or live narrow fringed green 
leaves like those found on the under side of a rose and paste them on so as to 

conceal all the under part of the rose where the petals are joined to the stem. 
Fasten the green foliage to the stem of the rose by twisting the wire of the one 

round that ol t he other, [n making a rose liud fasten a long shaped instead of 
round wad of cotton to the end of I he stem, and for I he inner petals cut a square 

of paper of the desired color, fold it In a three-cornered shape like a shawl, put it 
round the cotton as you would put on a shawl, drawing the two sides which would 

be the fronts of a shawl over each other and pinching the fullness around the stem. 

Lay several of these three-cornered pieces over each other first on one side of the 
budjthen the other till the heart of the bud is as full as you wish, then put on 
the outer petals, first curling the edges i>> drawing them over the blade of a pair of 
sharp scissors. Hoses and buds may he either large or small; their size must 
depend a good deal upon the use to which they are to he put. [n making paper 
(lowers or any other article of paper where paste has to he used he sure onlj flour 
or rice flour paste is used, as mucilage or glue of anj Kind will discolor and spoil 
the work entirely. 

PAPER HOLLYHOCKS. 

Double hollyhocks are easj to make and look very handsome for a large Mower. The 
petals must he cut in a narrow fringe around the edges. Take a pattern from the 
natural flower and make it as the rose was made, only use no cotton in the center. 
Pure white, pale pink and sulphur yellow are the prettiest colors to use. Only one 

shade is required for cadi flower. 

CARNATIONS. 

The carnation is another flower verj easj to make. The stamens can he made 
Of extremely narrow strips of paper curled at the tips-. The petals should he 

fringed at the edges and also curled a little over the scissors as described in 
direct ion - foi making ruses. 



27 

The Uses to which Paper Flowers can be put. 

There are many other flowers which may be imitated in paper besides those 
described, but some are more difficult to make. The flowers may be used for 
bouquets and placed in vases, or fancy willow baskets may be filled with them. 
Placques for the wall or to rest on small easels may be made by covering a piece of 
cardboard with velvet or satin and fastening upon it a bouquet of the flowers, with 
a bow of ribbon tied around the. stems. These placques are extremely hand- 
some. If the phicque is large a spray of ruses ami rosebuds with their green foliage 
may be thrown carelessly across it and lightly fastened to it. The lull blown roses 
should be placed at the lower end of the spray and the smallest buds at the top. 
Sprays or bouquets of [lowers may also be placed on large fans or on the top of box 

lids before mentioned. There are a number of other uses to which they may lie 
put which w ill readily occur to those who give the subject a little thought. 

PAPER DOLLS. 

These dolls always please children and they can soon learn to make them them- 
selves, which will amuse them as much as playing with the dolls after they are 
made. The heads and bodies can he bought at stores where scrap pictures are sold 
and are really scrap pictures made for that purpose. Cut a foundation for the skirt 
of the doll's dress from a piece of writing paper, sew it up the back and cover it, 

with thecolored tissue pa pel pleated, scalloped. milled or otherwise adorned to suit the 
taste. Cut two long, wide pieces of the paper and loop it up at the hack in the 
shape of a pulled train, the ends of the paper forming the train. Then paste a piece 
of stiff paper to the head leaving an end long enough to insert between the upper 
edges of the skirt and sew or paste the two together, thus fastening the body 
to the skirt. 

RICK-RACK. 

There are a number of different ways of making this popular trimming. The 
patterns are all pretty and easily made. It is a very durable trimming and can be 
applied to numberless purposes. White dresses and aprons, lawn, gingham and 
calico dresses can be ornamented with it. Tidies may be made wholly of it, or it 
can he put around the edges of crash and linen ones as a border. Children's dresses 
are often made entirely of rick-rack and look beautiful. The only materials needed 
are white serpentine braid, a spool of sewing cotton and a sewing needle or a steel 
crochet needle. 

Rick-Rack Edging. 

The following is a description of the simplest manner of making rick-rack, 
though it is by no means the prettiest pattern, but some like it because it takes so 
little time to make it and it really looks very nice: Measure around the article 
you wish to trim and take two pieces of rick-rack or serpentine braid each of which 
is as long as is required to trim (he article. Thread a needle with a, coarse thread 
and make a knot on the end. Lay the two pieces of braid together so that the 
scallops of one piece lie upon the scallops or points of the other. Sew the fust two 
points tegether with an over and over stitch. Do not pull the thread very tight. 
Now pass on to the next two points and sew them in the same way. A long stitch 
or piece of thread will be between the first, two points and the last. Sew the next two 
points in the same way and go on in this manner to the end of the braid. Open 
the two pieces of braid and press them on the wrong side with a warm Mat iron. 
The thread can be seen running along between each point from end to end. Put 
four, six, or as many rows as are preferred, together in this manner and when the 
work is ironed out it will look quite showy and may he used either as an edging or 
as an insertion. 



28 

ANOTHER EDGING. 

The next easiest waj of making it isas follows: Thread a needle with a number 
fortj thread and put a knot on the thread. Take up on the needle Unci' points of 
the braid and sen them securelj together, but as lightly as possible. Two points 
will stand up opposite to where the sewing is. Now pass the needle up to the 
point next to these two points and on the same side as they are, push the needle 
through this point and take up the two points next to it. sew these as the tirst three 
were sewed and two points w ill stand opposite the place where the Bewing has just 

been done. Pass the needle to the point next to these two points and on the same 
side, push the needle thl'OUgb this point and lake up the next two points and sew 

them as before. Continue doing this till the end of the braid is reached, when it 

will he seen there is a low of trimming ha\ Lng two points Standing up on each side 

alternately. This may be used as an edging if preferred, but bj sewing two rows 
tike this together a much wider and handsomer edging will he made. Sew two 

rows together thus: Put the fust two points of one row above the two points . ii 

tl ther row and sew them together. After sewing the first point of each row 

together take slip stitches along the wrong side of the braid to reach the next two 

points, so thai no stitches ma\ he seen on the right side. Slip stitch along the 

wrong side of the braid till the next two points are reached and join as before. 
Wheels 1 1 1 ; ( > hi' worked with i he t in cad in the large open places if preferred, though 

it is not necessary: some prefer the open spaces. These w heels can he made after 
the rows are joined b\ taking a needleful of number twenty thread and Crossing 

on the inside of the space from point to point till seven points have been crossed 
over. Before putting the needle and thread through the eighth point twist the 

needle over and under the threads in the center anil draw tin- thread close, then 

twist around the threads again and it will make a little round dot in the center, 

pull the thread through one of the others to secure it. and pass the needle through 
the last point. Ho this in all the open spaces. As many rows as one likes ma\ he 
sewed together, hut two will he w ide enough for an edging, while four or more will 

make beautiful insertion. The braid used for this pattern should he of medium 

number, neither very wide nor very narrow braid does well lor it. 

CLOVER LEAF EDGING. 

Clover leaf edging is the next easiest and is vers pretty indeed when made 

neatly. Unfortunately it is much easier made than described, and an inexpe- 
rienced worker may fail to understand the instructions that are given. Take hold 
of a piece of the braid with each hand, one hand being live or six inches from the 

other, and hold the braid up in a horizontal position the end Of Ihe'hraid should be 

in tin- left hand) move the thumb and tirst finger of the left hand along the upper 

edge of the braid while thus held and take hold of the fourth point from the end on 

the upper edge of the braid. Beginning with this fourth point count eight points 
on the same edge, double the braid hack till the eighth point meets the first one 

and sew the two together, then pass the needle down to the next two points ami 

sew them together. Sewthenext two in the same way. Now onlj two points are 

left. Run the needle through these two points and draw them up Close to the two 
that were last sewed together. Now work hack till the place is reached where the 
first two points were joined. To do this twist the needle two or three times around 
the thread that connects the last two points which were sewed together and the two 
points above them. Draw the thread audit will he seen that a t w isted. cord-like 

thread rung between these points. Do the same with the thread that connects 
these points with the first two that were sewed together. This brings the needle 
and thread up to where the sewing commenced. Open the work out flat. Take a 

a slip stitch upward to the next point on what w ill still he the upper edge of the 



29 

braid, what has just been worked is held in ;i horizontal position and fasten the 
thread with either a back or over stitch so that it will not draw the work when 
pulled. Take up two more points on the needle, making three counting the first 
point, draw them closely together and fasten them with an over stitch, or other 
stitch that will hold them securely. Lay the braid side by side with that which 
has already been joined with the twisted thread and sew the first two points 
together as was done before. Sew the next two lower points in the same way, then 
work up to the top again by twisting the needle around the connecting threads as 
at first and making a twisted thread of them. It will be seen that two points at the 
top of the work stand up horizontally. Take a slip stitch to the point just below 
on the braid that has not been worked. Count off eight points along the braid 
taking the point where the needle is for the first one. Double the braid so that the 
eighth point lies on the point where the needle joins these together with an over and 
over stitch and then join the next two points in the same way. .1 oin the next two low cl- 
ones in a similar manner and take the other two points on the needle and draw them up 
close to the two points just joined and fasten them securely, then work back to the 
top as before and proceed as directed alter making the first scallop. After several 
inches of work has been done it will be seen that on the top edge of the weak two 
points stand horizontally all along the edge ; these are for sewing the work to the 
article designed to be trimmed. At the lower edge arc three points forming a 
three-pointed scallop, the work taking the name of clover leaf rick-rack because 
the three points are supposed to resemble the three points of the clover leaf. 

INSERTION. 

Insertion to match this edging is made by making both edges with but two 
points, as at the top of the edging which is done by sewing at the beginning of the 
work only seven points instead of eight, all the rest of the work being done as before. 

STAR RICK-RACK. 

This is the pattern most universally admired. It is also the most difficult to 
make, though no rick-rack is really difficult after one has hail a little experience in 
making it. Take the end of the braid between the thumb and fore-linger of the 
left hand. Count, four points from the end on the upper side of the braid. Holding 
the fourth point count eleven, considering the point held as the first of the eleven. 
Double the braid back so that the eleventh point lies upon the point held. Sew the 
two points together with an over and over stitch and then sew the next two in the 
same way. let, all the other points hang loose and put the needle through the next 
point that is nearest to you as you hold the work in the left hand, draw the thread 
through till it makes a loop about, a, quarter of an inch long— it is not exactly a loop 
but a piece of loose thread between the points sewed together and the single point. 
Pass the needle backward through this loop and draw the thread up till it forms a 
kind of twist just close at the point. Put the needle through the next point and 
make another loop like the first between the two points, put the needle backward 
through it and make a twist close to the point. Do this till all arc worked around 
in this way. Now put the needle through the first loop made, then twist it twice 
around the thread that forms the second loop and twice around every other loop. 
After twisting it around two loops draw the thread through before working around 
the third as if is not easy to twist around more than two before drawing the thread 
through. When the needle has been twisted around them all draw the thread 
tight and this will form in the center a small hole about a sixth of an inch across, 
and short twisted threads will branch out from it to each point of the star, these 
being the loops which were made between each point with the one twist, in each, 

made b\ putting the needle backward through the loop. Now twist the needle 



30 

through the Brat made 1< •< >p and up through the center hole which will make a 
security stitch and prevent the hole being drawn any closer. Twisl the needle 
twice around the thread which leads up to where the ia>t two points were joined, 
pull the thread through and work up the other connecting thread to where the 
work commenced. Now counl three points downward on the side of the Btar 
that is farthest from you on the outside of the braid. Take slip stitches from poinl 
to poinl lill this third poinl is reached, put the needle through it and counting it as 
one counl nine points on the braid, fasten the ninth poinl to the point that the 
needle is in. Now begin to work another star bj making loops from point to point 
as before, putting the nerd it- bark wax I through each liiop as it is made, then twist 
ing the needle twice through each, pulling the thread through and making a center 
hole like the first. When the point is reached from which you began tliis second 
star count three points upward instead of downward as was done in the last, slip 
stitch to this point, and counting it as one count eleven along the braid and join the 
eleventh point to it, then join the next two points together, then proceed to make 
the loops around the star. Alternate thus throughout all the work, first eleven 

points in the (me star and nine in the next. When there are eleven points join two 

together, then pass im to the next two and join them, bid when there are but nine 

points onlj join the first two. Bj ( !■ >i hlt s< • i 1 will be seen as the work progresses 
that the lower stars have four outside points while the upper ones baveonlj two. 

These two pi lints are In sew the braid In the material to be trimmed, while the lour 

points form the edges of the trimming. To make the insertion for this edging 
make both upper and lower stars with but two outside points. To do this nine 

points must be taken every time In I'm m a new star instead id' first eleven and then 
nine. Several rows joined together b\ sewing form insertion. Work centers with 
the needle as in the stars. Some people use a steel crochet n He in making rick- 
rack and crochet the whole of the work, both the centers of the stars and all the 
joining of the points, but it looks coarser compared with that done w ith t he needle, 
so no instructions lor working it in crochet have been given. Number fortj thread 
and medium numbers of braid look best to use for ordinary purposes, though coarser 
In. ml and thread do well I'm' particular purposes. Never use linen thread whether 
the braid is linen or not. 

SHOPPING BAG IN TICKING. 

Those who have never seen a ban made of this material cannot imagine how 
pretty it looks. The narrow blue striped ticking should be used. Cut out a round 
piece of stiff cardboard lor the bottom id' the bag; cover it with ticking on both 
sides. This round-piece should be tolerablj large. Cut a piece of ticking wide 

enough to go around the card board making allowance for a seam up the side, and 
lit il he fifteen inches long. Turn a hem down at the (0)1 about three inches dl ep 
and an inch and a hall' above the hem. toward the top of the bag run a casing Im a 
ribbon to be drawn through. With zephyr wools of several colors work up and 
dow n. either the blue or the white stripes as preferred, a row of double herring bone 
stitch, making the first row of stitches of one color and the next row of another. 
When all the stripes are worked run a ribbon through the casing for a handle, mak- 
ing it a double handle, that is one band! ic side of the bag and another at the 

other side. Sew the bottom to it. and cut a piece of the ticking in a round shape so 
that when the bag is set in the middle of il. the edges when turned up will reach 
a third of the wa\ up the sides of the bag. < 'ill the edges Of this round piece into 
deep scallops, and bind I he scallops with scarlet worsted braid. Work 011 the stripes 
in double herring bone stitch as on the bag, set the bag in the center Of this piece 

and last en the scallops to the side of the bag by sewing them lo it. 



31 

Splashers and Mats in Linen Scrim. 

A lovely splasher can be made by cutting a piece of linen scrim the proper size, 
and fringingthe ends and sides by drawing out the threads. An inch from the fringe 

begin l<> draw out threads till you have a space of about a quarter of an inch with 
the threads drawn out. This must be done on every side. Leave a space of ball' 
an inch plain, then draw out threads as before. Leave another ball' inch plain, anil 
draw threads again. Take scarlet blue or pink ribbon a quarter of an inch wide or 
a little less. Thread a bodkin with the ribbon and draw it through the places where 
the threads were drawn out leaving a certain number of threads above ami as many 
below the ribbon. Make small bows of the ribbon and sew at each corner. A 
whole toilet set, including mats and splashers for the washstand, and mats and pin- 
cushion cover for the bureau may be made in the same way. 

STAMPIHG. 

Ladies can easily do their own stamping by using the perforated stamping patterns 
and prepared powder. These perforated paper patterns may be used over and over 
again without wearing out. For fifty cents I will send by mail to anyone the fol- 
lowing set of patterns, suitable for outline or Kensington embroidery, and a package 
of powder to stamp with, also full printed directions for doing the stamping. 

SET OF PERFORATED PATTERNS. 

One pillow sham pattern — ivy wreath with butterfly in center. 

One bed spread pattern to match but greatly enlarged. 

One border for fable cover — running vine of oak leaves and acorns. 

One center for tidy — pheasants, with ferns and other foliage. 

These patterns are the largest and handsomest in the market, and cannot be 
obtained from anyone else. 

I have also a large assortment of patterns, suitable for centers, borders and 
corners of tidies, splashers, table covers or toilette mats. A descriptive list of 
these will be sent free to anyone applying lor it. Address 

MISS L. Y. SANDFOKD, Quincy, Illinois. 

Where to Buy Materials for Fancywork. 

Ladies living in the country or in small villages often cannot readily procure 
materials for fancywork, as the merchants in small places do not keep lull lines of 
all the needful articles. For the benefit of such ladies the addresses of the follow- 
ing perfectly reliable linns are given, to whom they may safely write for prices or 
materials : 

For any material needed in fancywork apply to Theodore Goetze A Co., -■">(> Grand 
Street, New York, who will answer any letter of inquiry or send samples. The 
Brainerd & Armstrong Co., 469 Broadway, New York, sell all kinds of embroidery 
silk. They also sell packages containing an ounce of what they call " waste " 
embroidery silk at 40 cents a package. This is just as good silk as that sold in skeins 
and is much cheaper. It is merely odd lengths of the silk put up in skeins, and as 
live or six colors are put in one box, the purchaser not only receives a large quantity 
of silk but a variety of colors for a small sum of money, ft is sent by mail to any 
address, and postage stamps received as money. 

Address, L. Y. SA NDFOB I >. 

Nelson Court, Quincy, Illinois. 



INDEX 



PAOI 

Crazy Patchwork 

Quilts ui ii:i/\ Patchwork 

Tuly iu I'm/A Patchwork 3 

Chair Cushion Cover In Crazy Patchwork ... i 

rabk Scarf in Cm i Patchwork i 

Stitches used In Crazy Patchwork..... I 

i iross Stitch "ii i anvas :p 

I idles in Cross Stitch D 

Chair Cushion Cover in Cross Stitch 10 

Lambrequin In Cross Stitch 10 

Rug in Cross Stitch I" 

-i>i tshers In Cross stitch in 

Table Mais In Cross Stitch .. 10 

Pin Cushion In Cross stitch ll 

Crochel ll 

Ifghan Stitch ll 

j'e Carriage Robe In Afghan Stitch 19 

es in Double Crochel 12 

Lai uin in Double Crochet ii 

Shells IS 

Shopping Bag in Double) rochel 15 

" Dotted Afghan Stitch 16 

•■ Shell Stitch 16 

Slippers In Double Crochel Ribbed 17 

Afghan Stitch 17 

luesand Skirts in Crochet 18 

Stitch in 

Wristlets 20 

Bmbrolderj 20 

Outline Stitch 20 

Kensington Embroidery 21 

French Knots 21 

RIbl Embroidery -'-' 

rvnti. Braid Trimming 22 

Edging and Inse i to Match In Feather-edge Braid 22 

Inothi i Edging 

Insertion to Match this Edging -I 

Paper < Irnaments -I 

Paper Funs _l 

Paper Glove, Handkerchief and Work Boxes _ 25 

Paper Lamp Shades 

Paper Mais v 

Paper Flowers 96 

Kirk rack .•■ 

Paper Hulls 27 

Clover Leaf Edging and Insertion In Rick-rock 

■ and Insertion of Another Kiml •_■:> 

Simplest Pattern of Kick-rack Edging and Insertion 29 

-tin Pattern In Kirk rack Edging and Insertion ^ 29 

Shopping Bag in Ticking 80 

Splashers and Mats in Linen Scrim 31 

Stamping in 

u here to Buy Materials For Fancywork 31 



ILLUSTRATIONS. 



I.— Section ol aCrazj Quill with Edges in Points 2 

II.— Center for a Tidj In Cross stitch 

III.— 6 

IV.— Border for a Tidy in Long Stitch 7 

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